11/11/2009
A good cooking pumpkin has a relatively small seed cavity and thick, dense, dry flesh. It should be firm to the touch, and the stem should be attached to maintain the protective integrity of the skin. Here are some varieties to look for:
n  Sugar Pie. One of the best for cooking. 2-8 pounds, rich, thick flesh and a thin rind.
n  New England Cheese or Cheesebox. An heirloom variety and an old-time favorite for baking; so- called because the flat, round shape resembles a cheesebox. Can weigh up to 15 pounds.
n  Musquee de Provence. A French heirloom variety that is also known as Fairy Tale pumpkin. When fully mature the exterior is buff-colored, the flesh dense and dark orange. It can weigh up to 30 pounds, so at farmers’ markets it is often sold in wedges.
n  Rouge Vif d’Etampes. A French heirloom from the north of France, sometimes called a Cinderella pumpkin because it looks like the pumpkin that turned into her carriage. Bright reddish orange, well-lobed and sometimes warted, it weighs between 8 and 15 pounds and has excellent flesh for cooking.
n  Mini pumpkins. There are many different varieties, and are usually flavorful, but there isn’t much flesh on them, so these are best stuffed or used as a shell to serve ice cream or soup.
Homemade pumpkin purée
Pumpkin purée is easy to make. If you are using a 3- to 4-pound pumpkin, pierce it and bake whole on a baking sheet in a 350-degree oven until a sharp knife easily pierces through to seed cavity, 1 to 11/2 hours.
For larger pumpkins, cut in half or into wedges before baking, and bake pieces, cut side down, on a lightly oiled baking sheet.
When pumpkin is cool enough to handle, peel away skin, cut in half, scoop out seeds and fibers, and mash soft flesh with a potato masher or process in a food processor. If puree is a bit watery, cook it in a saucepan over medium heat until moisture has dissolved and pumpkin is dry. This is an important step, because dry puree is best to work with when combining with other ingredients such as eggs, milk, sugar and flour.
One 10-pound Fairy Tale pumpkin makes 8 cups puree.